The Carneros Region, with a climate similar to that of Burgundy in France, is a prime area for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.
Grapes have been grown in the Carneros since the 1830s, and the first Carneros winery, Winter Winery, was built in 1870. In the 1870s and 1880s, phylloxera destroyed almost all vineyards in the area, except the Stanly Ranch. In 1929 Beaulieu Vineyard and Louis M. Martini Winery began purchasing Carneros grapes, and in 1942 Martini purchased 200 acres of vineyard on the Stanly Ranch and later began planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The next key event was in 1960 when Rene di Rosa established Winery Lake Vineyard. The next year Beaulieu purchased 142 acres and planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As the success and fame of di Rosa's grapes spread, more and more wineries purchased Carneros land. In 1985 the Carneros Quality Alliance (www.carneros.org) was formed, and it now has 29 winery members in the Carneros area of both Napa and Sonoma Counties, and over 40 vineyard members.
The Carneros is an uncrowded area with excellent wineries, low rolling hills and superb bicycling roads—if you stay off the highway.
Don't be too disappointed if after turning off Highway 121/12 south of Napa, you follow the "Napa River Resorts" signs to Cuttings Wharf and have trouble finding the "resorts." Perhaps once there were resorts in this area, although there appears to be no historical record that this was ever the case. The drive is still pretty.
Restaurants
Boon Fly Café
4048 Sonoma Highway
Napa CA 94559
707.299.4900
www.thecarnerosinn.com/thecarnerosinn/restaurant_boonfly.aspx
Modern Rustic Cuisine - Dinner Entrees - $16-$19
The Boon Fly was named for a Carneros pioneer who planted orchards and vineyards in the mid-1800s. It's a gathering place for inn guests and locals, particularly since the Carneros Inn where the café is located also has a community post office and general store for people living in the Carneros.
The café offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a wine bar focusing on Carneros wines, among others. Don't miss the donuts.
Moore's Landing
6 Cuttings Wharf Road
Napa CA 94559
707.253.2439
American/Mexican - Entrees $7.25-$12.49
Lunch every day except Monday. Also dinners Friday and Saturday, and brunch Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. At the very end of Cuttings Wharf Road (turn south off Carneros Highway).
Brunch on the River—the view from Moore's Landing.
A funky right-on-the-Napa-River lunch and (sometimes) dinner spot that's a favorite of locals. Great tostada ceviche. Also burgers, sandwiches, enchiladas, burritos. It's particularly popular for weekend brunch on the deck overlooking the river. Pull right up on your boat, if you have one. A hangout for Carneros wine folks.
Lodging
Carneros Inn
4048 Sonoma Highway
Napa CA 94559
707.299.4900
86 cottages including 10 suites - $375 - $1200
A brand-new resort in the Carneros District located on the Carneros Highway (Highways 12/121) a short ways west of Highway 29. Cottages offer between 975 to 1800 sq. ft. of indoor/outdoor space, and include private patio and garden with gas-fired heater, wood-burning fireplace, high-speed Internet connection, bathroom with soaking tub, shower and heated slate floors, and a large-screen flat-panel television with DVD player.
Other features include the inn's private dining room, a full-service spa, swimming pool, bocce ball, croquet, and the Boon Fly, a café and wine bar, as well as over 1,000 sq. ft. of meeting space. The complex also offers 24 homes at prices ranging from $1,000,000 to $1,800,000.
Wineries
Acacia Winery
2750 Las Amigas Road
Napa CA 94559
707.226.9991
Directions: From Highway 121/12 turn south on Duhig Road. Follow Duhig for 1.5 miles, then turn onto Amigas Road. Acacia is 100 yards up Las Amigas on the left.
Acacia has been producing wine in the Carneros since 1979. Now part of the Chalone Wine Group, it continues to focus on single vineyard wines. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay.
April in Carneros
800.825.9457
Annual open house and festival sponsored by wineries in the Carneros District.
Artesa Winery
1345 Henry Road
Napa CA 94558
707.224.1668 Fax: 707.224.1672
Directions: Go south from Napa to Highway 12/121 and turn west toward Sonoma. Turn right on Old Sonoma Road at Mont St. John Winery. Go one block, then turn left on Dealy Lane, Proceed due west on Dealy Lane, which becomes Henry Road where the road curves beyond Carneros Creek Winery. Turn left into Artesa's driveway. (Not easy, is it? But it's worth the drive.)
Artesa Winery showcases the work of Napa artist Gordon Huether. (Photo courtesy of the artist.)
In 1872, the Codorniu family of Barcelona created the first methode champenoise sparkling wine in Spain. 120 years later they came to the Napa Valley to create premium, distinctly California sparkling wine. They now primarily produce still wine here. The winery, initially named Codorniu Napa, blends into the surrounding landscape and is as beautiful as their wine as delicious. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Syrah.
The view from the winery towards San Pablo Bay and the lower Carneros is gorgeous. But it's the art that truly sets it apart from other wineries. The stained glass and sculpture (inside and outside) by local—but internationally known—artist Gordon Huether is exquisitely beautiful. We won't attempt to describe it, because we can't do it justice, but we're sure you'll be entranced by it.
Bouchaine
1075 Buchli Station Road
Napa CA 94559
707.252.9065
DIRECTIONS: From Highway 121/12 turn south on Duhig Road. Follow Duhig for 1.5 miles, then turn left onto Las Amigas Road. Turn right (south) on Buchli Station Road. Bouchaine is on the right.
Founded in 1981, Bouchaine is the oldest continually operating winery in the Carneros, producing primarily Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs with some Gewürztraminer.
Carneros Creek
1285 Dealy Lane
Napa CA 94559
707.253.9463
Directions: From Highway 121/12 (Carneros Highway) turn north on Old Sonoma Road. Take first left onto Dealy Lane, winery is down Dealy Lane on left side.
Founded in 1972, with over 160 acres devoted to Pinot Noir. Owners Francis and Kathleen Mahoney also produce Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and Zinfandel.
Carneros Wine Alliance
Association of growers and wineries in the Carneros appellation.
Domaine Carneros Winery
1240 Duhig Road
Napa CA 94559
707.257.0101
Domaine Carneros by Tattinger.
The Chateau for this sparkling wine producer was inspired by Chateau de la Marquetterie, the historic 18th century Champagne residence owned by the principal founder of Domaine Carneros, Champagne Tattinger of Reims, France. Their tour includes a DVD presentation in English, French, Spanish, German and Japanese. Sparkling wines and Pinot Noir.
Etude Wines
1250 Cuttings Wharf Road
Napa CA 94559
707.257.5300
Directions: Turn south off the Carneros Highway about one mile west of Highway 29.
Tony Soter is consulting winemaker to a number of cult wineries. Now he's opening his own winery facility where he'll continue to produce his own label with its focus on Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's at the site of the former RMS Brandy distillery.
Madonna Estate Winery / Mont St. John
5400 Old Sonoma Road
Napa CA 94559
707.255.8864
Madonna Estate is on Old Sonoma Road just west of Highway 12/121 before it meets Highway 29. The Bartolucci family has been growing grapes organically for their estate wines for 80 years, originally in Oakville and now, for the last 30 years, in the Carneros. You'll enjoy all their wines, but keep in mind that their Johannisberg Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Muscat di Canelli are available only at the winery. Also Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Dolcetto.
Saintsbury
1500 Los Carneros Avenue
Napa CA 94559
707.252.0592
Directions: From Highway 121/12 turn south onto Los Carneros Avenue, then left onto Withers Road. Saintsbury is off Withers Road between Los Carneros and Cuttings Wharf.
Richard Ward and David Graves have been making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Carneros since 1981. They were convinced the Carneros could produce excellent Burgundian wines. Critics agree. So do the rest of us.
Truchard Vineyards
3234 Old Sonoma Road
Napa CA 94559
707.253.7153
Small family owned vineyard established in 1974, making its own wine since 1989. Truchard makes 11 different wines including Cabernet Franc, Roussanne, Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Tours and tasting by appointment only.
Activities
Di Rosa Preserve: Art & Nature
5200 Carneros Highway 12/121
Napa CA 94559
707.226.5991 Fax: 707.255.8934
Directions: Drive south of Napa on hwy 29. Turn right onto Carneros Hwy 121/12 toward Sonoma, and continue 2.5 miles. The di Rosa Preserve is on the right, just beyond Domaine Carneros winery.
A view on the way to the main visitor area of the di Rosa Preserve passes one of the metal sculptures created by the late Veronica diRosa. (Photo courtesy of di Rosa Preserve.)
Rene di Rosa was a trailblazer in developing vineyards in the Carneros region. His Winery Lake Vineyard was legendary for its Chardonnay grapes. He now focuses fulltime on his art collection, over 1,000 works created in the greater San Francisco Bay Area during the latter part of the 20th Century. The art varies from stunning to whimsical (such as the late Veronica di Rosa's sheep and cows) to outrageous, and the environment is absolutely beautiful. There's also a gift store.
One of the buildings of the di Rosa Preserve: Art & Nature (Photo courtesy of di Rosa Preserve.)
Reservations are required and tours can accommodate up to 25 people. Hours and days of operation are subject to change. Admission is $12 per person ($3.00 for the Gatehouse Gallery only). Wear comfortable clothing because you'll be wandering around in what is also a nature preserve.
Want some of the di Rosa Preserve at home? Buy Local Color: The Di Rosa Collection of Contemporary California Art
Napa-Sonoma Marshes Wildlife Area
Over 13,000 acres of saltwater ponds, tidal marshes, and wetlands managed by the State of California Department of Fish and Game. Just north of San Pablo Bay. This area is made up of levees and sloughs. Many waterfowl species and shorebirds including the California clapper rail can be found here. Most of the area is accessible by boat only.
Napa Valley Marina
1200 Milton Road (Off Cuttings Wharf Road)
Napa CA 94559
707.252.8011
Directions: From Napa go south on Highway 29, turn west on Highway 12/12. Go 1.4 miles and turn left (south) on Cuttings Wharf Road. Go 1.8 miles and veer right onto Las Amigas Road. Go .6 miles and turn left onto Milton Road. Go another .6 miles to marina.
The Napa Valley Marina—where you can sail right into the wine country's Carneros region. (Photo courtesy of Kathryn Winter)
200 deep-water slips, storage, chandlery, sales. In the heart of the Carneros wine country, and just 9 miles up the Napa River from San Pablo Bay.
Traffic Conditions
North Bay
www.sfgate.com/traffic/index.shtml#NORTH_BAY
Highway 29
www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/sr29
Highway 121
